5. Framing the Doorway Each side of the doorway should have a double 2x4 for added strength (figure F). If the door framing is perfectly plumb and square, it is typical to frame it 1/8" to 1/4" instead of 1/2" larger than the door's outside dimension (O.D.) to give a more rigid fit. (Example: The O.D. of the standard doorjamb is 25-3/4" x 81-3/4" so you would frame it at 26" x 82") This method of close framing is also recommended if you are installing an all-glass door. The O.D. of the standard all glass door is 26-3/8" x 74-3/8" so you would frame it at 26-5/8" x 74-5/8". For a custom built door, calculate the R.O. from the actual outside dimensions of the door frame. See specifications supplied with yourcustom door. NOTE: If you have a handicap (ADA) door, consider leaving the baseplate clear for wheelchair access. NOTE: If using a standard 80" door, it is typical to go with no threshold. If using a 72" door, a single (1-1/2") or double (3") threshold may be desired. 6. Framing for Air Inlet Every sauna should have two vents; an air inlet and air outlet. The air inlet should be located just below the heater at floor lever. Using 2x4s, create a box with inside dimensions of 6" x 4". It is easiest to incorporate a wall stud for one of the sides of your box and the base plate to complete the bottom of your rectangle (figure G). 7. Framing for Air Outlet The outlet vent should be located as far from the inlet as possible, diagonally across the room. Frame the opening the same size as the inlet (6" x 4") with the top of the opening 23" off the floor in standard situations. It is not recommended to install the outlet any higher than 30" to ensure minimal loss of heat from the sauna. Again, use an existing stud for one side of the vent. Additional 2x4s will need to be cut to form the other 3 sides of the vent. 8. Framing for Heater Mounting Bracket Determine the location of the heater in the sauna as recommended by your sauna representative or as described by your heater installation instructions and template supplied with the heater. Add two 2x4 supports between the studs for the heater brackets (figure I). NOTE., The metal heater hanging brackets are installed after the T&G installation. The height and location of the supports is determined by the mounting instructions supplied with the heater. The 2x4 supports are not needed when using the optional floor stand or commercial floor standing heaters. 9. Electrical Rough-In Once the sauna is fully framed, and before the insulation is installed, the electrical rough-in should be done by a licensed electrician. Warning: Follow wiring instructions provided with the heater. Always use proper wire size and type as specified in your heater instructions provided in your heater box. Control: If using an external control, have your electrician run wire from your breaker panel to the point on the wall where your control will be mounted, leave a service loop and then continue to the heater. Heater: Your wires will enter your sauna heater from below (figure 1). Be sure to allow enough extra wire (typically 18') to make final hook-up easier. Light: The light can be mounted on a wall of your choice. Most common is off to one side of the door. Have wire run wire accordingly.